In February 2020, right before the world shut down and we were all confined at home, I had the opportunity to explore the beautiful land of Guatemala.
Guatemala is captivating by its diversity. You can hike volcanoes (some of which are still active and erupting!), swim in peaceful lakes, surf the pacific ocean, stroll in the lush jungle and explore mystical Maya ruins. Last but not least, the kindness of the people and their beautiful traditions warmed my heart and made the trip so special.
Guatemala is bordered by Mexico, Belize, El Salvador and Honduras. I stayed three weeks in the area, mostly in Guatemala, but I was also able to stop by Bacalar in Mexico and Caye Caulker in Belize.
Here comes the menu :
- Antigua and the volcanoes Acatenango and Fuego
- A glimpse of Mexico with the heavenly Bacalar
- Chilling at Caye Caulker, Belize
- On the tracks of the Mayas at Flores
- Final stops around Lake Atitlan
Antigua and the volcanoes Acatenango and Fuego
To get there
I landed in Guatemala city and took a private transfer directly to Antigua. This is usually arranged by the host but you can easily Uber as well. In 2020, the ride from Guatemala city airport to Antigua cost 250Q (about 30€) for one hour drive.
Antigua, a colonial jewel
Antigua used to be the capital city during Spanish colonial times until it was badly damaged by earthquakes in the 18th century. It is a Unesco World Heritage since 1979.
The town is surrounded by four prominent volcanoes: Volcan de Agua, Volcan de Fuego, Acatenango and Pacaya. In Guatemala, there are over 30 volcanoes offering many hikes with crazy landscapes.
The colonial architecture is very well preserved, the Spanish Baroque style can be spotted everywhere in the charming paved streets of the city center, making it very picturesque.
To do list
- Arcos de Santa Catalina
This architectural arch is from the 17th-century and was originally a private passageway for nuns. Now it is the symbol of the city’s colonial heritage and offers a scenic view of a typical paved street with the Volcan de Agua in the background.
- Caminata al Cerro de la Cruz
La Caminata al Cerro de la Cruz is a short hike starting from the city center of Antigua that leads to the summit of Cerro de la Cruz (Hill of the Cross). I highly recommend to do it as it’s quite low efforts for the reward you’ll get : panoramic views of the city with the volcano Agua in the background and surrounding landscapes. The best time is obviously sunrise or sunset. 🙂
- San Jose Cathedral of Antigua
The cathedral was built in the 16th century, and destoyed soon after in the 1717 earthquakes. This church really show how much earthquakes and volcanoes damaged the ancient capital.
- Mercado covierto, “covered market”, where you can find nice crafts and jewels
Acatenango, an absolute must !
The best experience of my stay in Antigua, and even of the whole trip (and maybe of my whole life!) is hiking the volcano Acatenango.
It’s quite a challenging hike as it takes 5 to 7 hours to reach the top, and 3-4 hours to go down. You start the hike from La Soledad (2 700 meters above sea level) and the top is at 4 000 meters high. So quite a lot of height difference. If it’s not enough for you and you want to perform, you can also extend the hike to go a few kilometers over Fuego. Most people camp overnight and make the experience a 2-day trip.
I’m usually not a fan of guided tours but for this, I highly recommend going with Wicho and Charlie. They’re just the best! They will provide you with all the equipment needed, drive you to La Soledad, supply food and water, and organize sleeping arrangements on top. It was 55€ per person in 2020.
The sunset and sunrise from the summit are just magical. You can see the twin volcano of Acatenango : Fuego, erupting with red lava at night. The volcano Fuego erupts every 15 minutes!
Resto & accom tips
There are plenty of nice airbnbs in Antigua, but I can recommend staying here. The pool is a very nice extra, with some crazy views of the volcano Agua in the back, and the host arranged airport pick up and drop off.
Our go-to breakfast place was Rainbow Cafe and I can only recommenc the tacos of Taqueria Dona Lupita !
A glimpse of Mexico at BACALAR
Because I had dreamed about Bacalar for a while and it was quite close, we decided to make a detour through Mexico.
To get there
Unfortunately we had to fly as it seemed quite complicated to cross two different borders by roads (Belize and Mexico). We flew with Volaris from Guatemala city to Cancun, and from there took a 5 hours night bus to Bacalar on Busbud. The bus company was ADO and everything went very smoothly.
The magic of Bacalar
Bacalar is just something else. The small town is built around an impressive lagoon of about 40 kilometers. We call it the “Lagoon of Seven Colors” because of the different shades of blue there are, due to varying depths and the presence of limestone in the water. Also depending on the time of the day, the sun can reflect very different colors.
When we arrived it was sunrise, and it was just magical to witness this much beauty. Even after spending a very short night in the bus, we simply couldn’t go to sleep and were hypnotized by this jetty.
To do list
- Pontón Municipal
This is the jetty I mentionned above. Make sure to spend some time there, for sunset or sunrise.
- Paddle or Kayak at sunrise/sunset : the lagoon’s calm waters make it ideal for relaxation.
- Take a catamaran tour to visit different spots of the immense lagoon.
- Doing yoga, just like paddle, I highly recommend doing yoga at sunrise in one of the jetties.
- Spend the afternoon at Los Rapidos ! This is a must in the area ! From Bacalar you can take a taxi there if you don’t have a car, it’s about 15 minutes. In 2020, the entrance fee was 100 pesos (5€). There you can swim and float in natural currents created by the flow of freshwater from the nearby cenotes. It is really a magical place. I highly recommend going at the opening : 10am, and get the bed on the very far left side. There, you will be a bit isolated from the crowd and it is the most beautiful corner in my opinion. They serve nice tapas for lunch.
Resto & accom tips
In Bacalar too, they are probably many cool accommodations but I want to recommend this Airbnb ! Jose was the greatest host, very discreet yet very helpful and he is a professional massage therapist so he offers special discounts for his guests! Highly recommended!
My top 3 to grab a bite would be :
Chilling at Caye Caulker, Belize
To get there
From Bacalar, you can take a 4h shuttle to Belize city and there, you can catch a ferry to Caye Caulker at Belize Express terminal or Ocean Ferry. The boat ride takes about an hour. Make sure to have some cash for the border between Mexico and Belize, the custom fare is about 30€.
I don’t recommend staying too long in Belize city, the atmosphere felt a bit unsafe, there were a lot of junkies and we heard the guns and crime rate is pretty high.
Going slow in Caye Caulker
Caye Caulker is one of the most laid-back places I’ve ever been to! Off the coast of Belize, the island is known for its beautiful beaches where you can snorkel, and dive. The atmosphere is very relaxing and the slogan “go slow” of the island will make sense as soon as you set foot there. There is no road or car so the main mode of transportation is bicycles or golf carts.
To do list
- Enjoy the island vibe and chill at some of the beautiful beaches, especially Koko King beach, The Split, Playa Asuncion and Secret Beach.
- Snorkeling or diving: Caye Caulker is so close to the Barrier Reef. I can recommend the company CAVEMAN to swim with tropical fish, sharks, rays and manatees! In 2020, it was 65USD per person for an afternoon. Hol Chan Marine Reserve is also very close, so you could also dive there where there is a lot of shipwrecks.
- Talk to the locals, there are a lot of Creole, Maya, Garifuna and Mestizo people living on the island.
- Take your time and go slow, as the island’s mantra says.
Resto & accom tips
I stayed at this airbnb, close to The Split, and it was just what we needed!
For restaurants, here is a little list :
- Koko king : great one for seafood !
- Errolyn’s House for the fryjacks: these are very local and pretty similar to empanadas
- Ice and Beans : less local but great for breakky, I loved their bubble waffles…
- Hibisca: a bit more fancy but very good
- You’ll also find many street BBQ stands where you can eat fried chicken like you never had before
On the Mayas’ tracks at Flores
To get there
From Caye Caulker, we reached Flores with a 5h shuttle. We crossed the road border smoothly, but remember to keep about 40 Belize dollars to pay.
Flores is a very colorful town on the peninsula of a lake Petén Itzá. In the area, you can also explore the ancient Mayan ruins at the archeological site of Tikal.
To do list
- Exploring the Mayan ruins at Tikal : if you don’t have a car, I recommend the agency Tikal Crasborn Travels that will arrange transportation + entrance fee.
- Strolling in the cute streets of Flores, enjoy local cuisine, traditional music and dance.
- Kayaking on the lake Peten Itza, or paddling or swimming. It is so relaxing to spend sunrise or sunset at the lake.
- El Mirador, if you’re feeling adventurous, you could do a multi-day trek through the jungle to El Mirador, a remote and ancient Mayan city.
Resto & accom tips
I can only recommend stopping by La Casa de Enrico for eating and at Casa del Lacandon to sleep, right on the water and very good value for money.
Final stops around Lago Atitlan
To get there
- Fly from Flores to Guatemala city
- Drive to Antigua (Uber)
- Overnight in Antigua
- 3 hours shuttle from Antigua to San Pedro, Lake Atitlan
To do list
Stroll and visit some of the local villages. Each has its own vibe and all are great.
- San Pedro de la Laguna : main village around the lake
- Santa Catarina Palopo : colorful indigenous village with a lot of Mayan art and culture
- Jabalito and the nice pool bar Ven Aca Club
- Tzununa, where women were celebrated in a great festival
- The Indian Nose hike, I recommend doing it at sunrise!
- Chichicastenango market
It is one of the largest and most famous indigenous markets in Central America. It has a very unique vibe, lots of traditional Mayan crafts, textiles, pottery, and all sort of food. The market happen on Thursdays and Sundays, and is very often packed, with both locals and tourists.
- Volcan san Pedro
San Pedro is part of the several volcanoes around Lake Atitlan. I recommend hiking to the summit for a beautiful view of the lake surroundied by the volcanoes. Pretty similar to the Indian Nose hike, as both are on the south side.
Accommodation tips
Depending on how much time you have you could spend a few days in different villages or base yourself in one and use boats to reach wherever. I was based in San Pedro La Laguna and loved Clemente’s place! He’s the nicest guy we met and the view is just the best.
in a nutshell…
Guatemala is a captivating tapestry of ancient Mayan wonders, vibrant markets, and breathtaking landscapes. From the historic ruins to the colorful streets, each moment here is a journey through the heart of Central America’s rich cultural heritage. Whether you’re exploring the mystique of Tikal or strolling through Antigua’s cobblestone streets, Guatemala promises an adventure that transcends the ordinary. It’s not just a destination; it’s a rendezvous with the soul of a nation steeped in history and natural beauty.