Vibrant colors, rich history, and exotic flavors, Morocco will awaken all your senses, fill your heart and south your soul.
From the majestic Atlas mountains to the enchanting Atlantic coast, through the desert and the many genuine villages, Morocco has a tooon to offer.
Where ?
This trip was mainly focused on surfing, so the itinerary took place along the South Atlantic Coast, from Essaouira to Tifnit, in the heart of Berber culture.
I flew to Agadir, rented a car and drove to Essaouira (3 hours) and then, down the coast, passing by Sidi Kaouki, Tafedna, Imsouane, Tamri, Taghazout and Tifnit.
When ?
I highly recommend avoiding June to September if you want to keep away from the crowds. And the heat!
The best period in my opinion is October-November or March-April. To give you an idea about the climate, it was above 25 degrees in November and never below 20 in March. And unfortunately for the local farmers, it rains very rarely and never for long, even in winter.
What ?
1. Essaouira
Simply the best ! Essaouira, formerly named Mogador, is my favorite city in Morocco. With its stunning fortifications, picturesque medina and, of course, beautiful beaches, the blue city has it all and is a must-visit destination for anyone traveling to Morocco.
The city has a really interesting history too. It used to be a major trading hub, and you can still see some of the old fortifications and port facilities from the 18th century. These days, the economy obviously relies mostly on tourism.
Essaouira is also famous for the Gnawa music, which is this really unique fusion of African, Arabic, and Berber styles. You can catch performances all over the city, especially in the summer.
To do list in Essaouira
- Stroll around the medina and check out the art galleries, the crafts shops and the local life bustling around. The medina is really a fascinating and lively place to explore where you can find all sorts of traditional Moroccan goods, like rugs, pottery or jewelry.
- Eat some msemmens… with some amlou in it ! Amlou is a berber spread made of almonds, argan oil and honey, and msemmens are these moroccan crepes that you can eat sweet or savor. And they’re delicious !
- Walk around of the fortifications. These were built in the 18th century by the sultan at the time, Mohammed III, to protect the city from invaders and they still are in a really good shape. You can walk along the walls and get amazing views of the city and the ocean. There are also several old cannons still in place that were used to defend the port back in the day.
- Go to the fish market and eat some fresh grilled fish on the port. It is a bustling place where you can see fishermen bringing in their daily catch and selling it directly to customers. It is open every day, all day long, but the best time to visit is in the morning when the fishermen are just back from their night shift. Once you choose your fish, you can take it to one of the many stalls where they will clean it for you. You can then take it to a nearby restaurant to grill it !
- Hammam : there are some in the medina but essentially for tourists, they won’t give you the real experience. I personally preferred the Arrouanak public hammam. You can book a massage and a scrub for 50dh.
Cheap eats, not-to-miss restos in Essaouira
- Chez Youssef El Baraka, my fav !
- Chez Miloud, the best msemmens in town !
- Restaurant Khmissa
- Safran Citron restaurant
- The Hungry Nomad Rooftop, great for a sunset drink or for breakfast
- Tajine Marocain Beldi Chez Latifa, great local spot
- Salut Maroc! A bit pricy, it’s basically European prices but the rooftop is beautiful, you should at least get there for a drink at sunset.
Accomodations recommendation
I stayed here and here, the first is jsut a room, the second is a whole flat, more spatious. There are plenty of beautiful riads all over the medina, just try to be close to the port.
2. Sidi Kaouki
About 20 minutes South of Essaouira, you have a great surf spot. The village in itself isn’t much, and I didn’t particularly love the resorts vibe cause it sounds a bit too built up for tourism… Though, if you’re surfing, and also just for the walk and the views, you have to go to La grotte. A cave formed by water over the years that hosts a beautiful beach and above everything, a super long wave with the cleanest break.
Resto-recos in Sidi Kaouki
You have to stop at the Cooperative Kapcim on the way, in Ghazoua. It is a family owned craft cooperative that also have a restaurant in a lovely yard. Highly recommended for food but also for shopping genuine crafts such as wicker baskets, ceramic tableware, or even edibles like spices and Argan oil.
On the road
A bit further South, on the way to Imsouane, there is another fishing village called Tafedna that is worth stopping by, just for the crazy views of the beach you get from the road above the village.
3. Imsouane
This village is clearly my favorite! Located 1h30 away from Essaouira, you will find a very small and simple little village, still quite well preserved from mass tourism. Except from a bunch of surfers, the locals are still a vast majority which gives a great sense of authenticity. It is the greatest place to relax and get away from it all. You’ll get to know and love the locals and will really feel at home there. Or at least, I did.
Even if you’re not into surfing, there’s plenty to do in Imsouane. The town itself is really charming, with traditional Moroccan architecture and a laid-back vibe. There are lots of little cafes and restaurants where you can grab some amazing seafood, and the beach is great for sunbathing and swimming.
The village is spread between The Bay, and Cathedral beach. There are many vans in between the two beaches, but everyone is super respectful and responsible.
To do list
- It may sound cheesy but just being there and going with the flow is just everything. It makes you slowdown and just enjoy everything around you : the ocean, the sun, the food, the people. You spend the days surfing, swimming, reading, doing yoga, meditating, tanning, eating, sleeping. And repeat.
- Surfing : The Bay is better for beginners and Cathedral for more confirmed surfers.
- About half an hour away from Imsouane, on the way to Taghazout, you have the Dunes of Tamri, and it is highly recommended to stop by for a few hours to get a taste of desert. There is also a canyon that is pretty cool to walk in.
Favorite restos in Imsouane
- Magic Point : for breakky, lunch and dinner !
Zohra is just the best. She does everything, msemmens and baghrirs for breakky, all kinds of omelettes, soups and salads, and of course couscous and tajines! Not everything is on the menu so just ask her. And the view is everything…
- Bakery La Gourmandise, for great breakfast or msemmens at any hour.
- Café Tamazight, this one is run by three Berber sisters and even if the set up is very raw, the food is amazing! Don’t forget to order about 1 hours in advance if you want couscous or tajines, like pretty much everywhere!
- Fresh fish chez Jolo, or one of the other restaurants next to it, down the pier.
- Momo’s Café, facing Cathedral beach. Great spot for a sunset drink, and the food is also very good. Order your couscous or tajine in advance, like anywhere else.
- A coffee truck, that also makes crepes, sits on the sidewalk facing the water when going to Cathedral. It is nice for breakfast. It doesn’t have a name and you won’t find it on Google, but you’ll find it not far from the roundabout.
Accommodations recommendations
I can highly recommend Imsouane Beach House – chez Hafid et Pauline, on Cathedral beach. For a more extensive budget, there is The O, on the other side, that offers a higher standard. I am personally in love with Hafid’s place, especially the first room at the entrance. You can also rent a whole place at “La Casbah”, just send a message on Instagram.
4. Taghazout
About 70 kms south of Imsoune, 30 minutes from Agadir, there is another beautiful fishermen village that is a surfers paradise too.
Taghazout is a small fishing village that has become a bit too popular for my taste, because of (or thanks to) the great surfing conditions and the laid-back local culture. But even if it gets busier and busier over the years, it is still super worth it to spend some time there.
Surfing is definitely the main attraction as the waves are pretty consistent year-round. But even if you’re not into surfing, there’s plenty to do. You can go for long walks on the beach, hike in the surrounding hills, or just hang out at one of the many cafes and restaurants.
To do list around Taghazout
- Enjoy a sunset in one of the bars facing the main beach, such as Café Surf Berbère or Windy Bay. They are quite touristy though, so you definitely won’t find the best dishes there, despite higher prices…
- Walk in the heights of the village and soak in the vibrant colors of the streets.
- Go hiking in the Paradise Valley
About 45 minutes away, you have a natural oasis located in the High Atlas Mountains with lush green palm trees, natural rock pools, and stunning waterfalls. There is nice hiking trails, a shorter and a longer one, swimming spots and you can grab a bite with your feet in the fresh river after your hike.
- Surf, surf and surf
- Anchor Point: one of the best surf spots in Morocco, high-quality waves for experienced surfers
- Hash Point: great spot as well, ideal for beginner or intermediate
- Panorama: variety of waves suitable for surfers of all levels
- Taghazout Beach: great spot for beginners and intermediate surfers
- Devil’s Rock: consistent waves for intermediate surfers
- Boilers: challenging surf spot with powerful waves, for experienced surfers
Restos in Taghazout
- The best, the one and only local restaurant left in Taghazout, is below the minaret, next to a surf shop called Almugar. It doesn’t have a name. You can have omelettes, salads, soups, msemmens and of course, the best couscous and tajines. Don’t forget to stop by in advance in the afternoon to order couscous and tajines.
Accommodation Reco
Chez Abdullah et Zohra : great location, amazing view, huge bed and the loveliest hosts.
5. Tifnit
About 30 kms South of Agadir, is Tifnit, a genuine berber fishing village, without electricty or running water. It is therefore simply impossible to not disconnect and be swept in the laid-back local bubble. The village itself is pretty remote – but that’s part of the charm.
To do list
- Walk along the beach, which is a quite long, sandy stretch of coastline that’s perfect for swimming and sunbathing.
- Check out the traditional Berber architecture. The houses are made of mud and straw, and they’re really unique and interesting to look at.
- The main attraction in the area is the National Park Souss-Massa. It was established in 1991 and it is huge, about 34K hectares, with a super diverse ecosystem that includes sandy beaches, rocky shores, dunes, wetlands, and forests.
There are two entrances. One in the south of the park (30.063240, -9.660609) where you can observe many of the migrating birds, and one in the north (30.289792, -9.561270) where you can check out bigger animals such as antelopes, ostriches, addax, oryx, or gazelles.
Resto Recos in Tifnit
The go-to restaurant is on the beach and called Chez Maxim’s. You can eat fresh grilled seafood and great salads while looking at the ocean with your feet in the sand.
Where to stay ?
I can only recommend Cap Tifnit, which consists of fisherman’s cabins renovated with great taste, and provides an ecological experience in a village without water or electricity, but with all necessary comfort.
Last few details
Even if in Essaouira, you can easily get around with the “petits taxis”, to go to all the places I mentioned, I highly advise to rent a car. I recommend using rentalcars.com, they also have an app. At the airport, just ask people where your car company sits, they’re usually in the parking. For the insurance though, it’s cheaper and more covering to take it separately with Rentalcovers.com.
Don’t forget to negotiate anything and everything ! First, it will keep you from paying at least twice the price of things, but it is also part of the culture and shows interest and respect to the person you’re doing business with.
*****
To give you a taste
🙂